EL ANILLOan independent magazine of Spanish culture
An independent magazine of Spanish culture

EL ANILLO

The food, the cities, the fiestas, the names and the history — Spain, read slowly.

The lead · La Mesaour flagship food feature
A wood-fire paella pan outdoors in the Valencian huerta at midday — rabbit, green beans and saffron rice, smoke drifting, workers' hands at the pan edge

El Anillo · Food & the Table · Feature · 7 min read

A Country at the Table

Spain is not one cuisine. It is a continent of them — and the only way to understand the country is to eat your way through it: Valencia's true paella, the Basque pintxo, Galicia's octopus, Castile's roasting ovens, and the ham that carries a whole landscape inside it.

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Las Ciudadesthe places and the stones

El Anillo · Cities & Landmarks · Feature · 7 min read

The Alhambra

The last great monument of al-Andalus still holds its breath on the hill above Granada — a palace built not from stone alone but from shadow, calligraphy and the sound of running water.

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The Court of the Myrtles at the Alhambra: the Comares Tower reflected in the long still pool, clipped myrtle hedges either side
«La sobremesa is not after the meal; it is half of the meal.»
— from A Country at the Table · more Spanish terms in the Glossary
Las Fiestasthe year in fire and procession
A Semana Santa paso seen from a balcony at night — candlelight on the Virgin's face, incense smoke rising through the streetlight, crowds lining the narrow street

El Anillo · Fiestas & Holidays · Feature · 4 min read

Semana Santa

Spain's holiest week turns the street into a cathedral — the cofradías, the two-tonne pasos on fifty shoulders, and the lone saeta sung from a balcony that stops the drums.

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La Herenciathe long inheritance
The interior of the Mezquita of Córdoba — a forest of double-tiered arches in alternating red brick and white stone, receding in every direction

El Anillo · Heritage & History · Feature · 6 min read

Al-Andalus

Nearly eight centuries of Muslim Iberia were not a footnote to Spanish history — they were, in large part, its foundation. It survives in the arches of Córdoba, the word ojalá, and the orchards of Valencia.

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The Signature · Los Nombresthe magazine's original speciality

The Surname Explorer

Most Spanish family names can still be read as sentences — statements of lineage, place, trade or appearance made by people dead six centuries. Type a surname, or filter by kind. Forty-four names from the card file, each with its origin.

García

Uncertain, likely pre-Roman Basque; one of Spain's most common surnames

origin debated
Fernández

Patronymic — 'son of Fernando'

patronymic
González

Patronymic — 'son of Gonzalo'

patronymic
Rodríguez

Patronymic — 'son of Rodrigo'

patronymic
López

Patronymic — 'son of Lope' (from Latin lupus, wolf)

patronymic
Martínez

Patronymic — 'son of Martín'

patronymic
Sánchez

Patronymic — 'son of Sancho'

patronymic
Pérez

Patronymic — 'son of Pedro'

patronymic
Gómez

Patronymic — 'son of Gome' (Visigothic 'man')

patronymic
Ruiz

Patronymic — 'son of Ruy/Rodrigo'

patronymic
Díaz

Patronymic — 'son of Diego'

patronymic
Álvarez

Patronymic — 'son of Álvaro'

patronymic
Moreno

Descriptive — 'dark-haired' or dark-complexioned

descriptive
Muñoz

Patronymic — 'son of Munio'

patronymic
Romero

Occupational/status — a pilgrim (to Rome), a romero

occupational
Torres

Toponymic — 'towers', from a place with towers

toponymic
Serrano

Toponymic/descriptive — a highlander, from the sierra

toponymic
Blanco

Descriptive — 'white', fair-haired or fair-skinned

descriptive
Molina

Toponymic/occupational — from a mill (molino)

toponymic
Delgado

Descriptive — 'thin, slender'

descriptive
Castro

Toponymic — from a castro, a fortified hilltop settlement

toponymic
Rubio

Descriptive — 'blond, fair'

descriptive
Iglesias

Toponymic — 'churches', from someone living by a church

toponymic
Medina

Toponymic — from Arabic madīna, 'city'; several Spanish towns

toponymic
Guerrero

Occupational — 'warrior'

occupational
Cortés

Descriptive — 'courteous, courtly'

descriptive
Castillo

Toponymic — 'castle'

toponymic
Herrera

Occupational/toponymic — from herrero (blacksmith) or an iron-working place

occupational
Vega

Toponymic — 'meadow, fertile lowland'

toponymic
Fuentes

Toponymic — 'springs, fountains'

toponymic
Peña

Toponymic — 'rock, crag'

toponymic
Flores

Toponymic/descriptive — 'flowers'

toponymic
Cano

Descriptive — 'grey-haired, white-haired'

descriptive
León

Toponymic — from the city/kingdom of León (or 'lion')

toponymic
Gallego

Toponymic — 'the Galician', from Galicia

toponymic
Caballero

Status — 'knight, gentleman'

occupational
Reyes

Religious/descriptive — 'kings', often from the Epiphany (Reyes Magos)

religious
Nieto

Kinship — 'grandson'

descriptive
Ferrer

Occupational (Catalan) — 'blacksmith'

occupational
Soto

Toponymic — 'grove, woodland by a river'

toponymic
Prieto

Descriptive — 'dark, dark-haired'

descriptive
Cruz

Religious — 'cross'

religious
Calvo

Descriptive — 'bald'

descriptive
Aguilar

Toponymic — an eagle's nest / place of eagles

toponymic

Nothing in the card file under that spelling — try the first letters only.

Food & Regions · The Tapas Boardpick a region; the board sets itself
A wood-fire paella pan with rabbit, chicken and garrofó beans, cooked outdoors in the huertaValenciaPaella valenciana

The real one: rabbit, chicken, ferradura beans and garrofó over orange-wood fire — never the tourist seafood version.

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A pintxo counter in San Sebastián: anchovies, gilda skewers and tortilla on slices of breadBasque CountryPintxos

Composed, architectural, counted by the toothpick along the bar — a minor culinary art form.

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A jug of gazpacho and filled glasses on a bar in the Andalusian summer heatAndalucíaGazpacho

Not a novelty but a sustenance — a liquid salad that feeds the south through its brutal summers.

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Small fried fish in a paper cone from a freiduría in CádizAndalucíaPescaíto frito

Good fish, barely coated, fried fast in olive oil and eaten immediately from the paper.

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Sliced octopus on a round wooden board, dressed red with pimentón and coarse saltGaliciaPulpo a feira

Octopus on a wooden board with oil, salt and pimentón — so simple it demands real technique.

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A steaming bowl of caldo gallego, the thick Galician bean and greens brothGaliciaCaldo gallego

The thick bean-and-greens broth that waits at the end of a cold Galician morning on the Camino.

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A wood-fired clay roasting oven in Segovia with suckling pig on earthenwareCastileCochinillo & lechazo

The roasting oven of the meseta: skin thin as parchment, meat given up entirely to tenderness.

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Paper-thin slices of jamón ibérico on a plain white plate, fat half-translucentExtremaduraJamón ibérico de bellota

Acorn-fed, cured for years in mountain air — something between a meat and a meditation.

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A copper pan of arroz cooking over orange-wood fire by the Albufera lagoonValenciaThe other arroces

The huerta cooks a dozen rice dishes beyond paella — and defends every one of them.

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The five sectionsevery article, one plain link away
sobremesa — the time at the table after the meal socarrat — the prized scorched crust of a paella capirote — the tall penitential hood of Holy Week trencadís — Gaudí's broken-tile mosaic botafumeiro — the great censer of Santiago apellido — a surname; every Spaniard carries two